Saw Eh Kanyaw/ Kantarawaddy Times
On March 18, I was fortunate to gain access to my birthplace, my shattered hometown of Hpasaung, with revolutionary comrades’ protection.
The first thing I saw was a faded sign that read, “Welcome to Hpasaung,” barely visible through the overgrown bushes.
As I continued down the road, I came across Hpasaung’s township hospital. Now it is surrounded by fallen leaves and thick undergrowth. A sense of unease settled in my heart.
Driving through the town center, starting from the main entrance, what I witnessed as a native of Hpasaung was nothing but just short of devastating.
Houses burned down, artillery strikes destroyed buildings, and no people, not even a single animal in sight. It felt like stepping into a post-apocalyptic movie set, the atmosphere thick with desolation.
The battle of Hpasaung began on February 29, 2024, and has now lasted over a year. Yet, the town remains unconquered.
Hpasaung covers an area of just 0.467 square miles. With the military junta’s Light Infantry Battalion 134 and 135 stationed inside the town, the fighting has left it in ruins. Homes and religious buildings have been reduced to rubble in the crossfire.
The town is divided into four neighborhoods: Southern, Northern, Kawt Thit, and Taungpaw.
The Destruction of Homes, Buildings, and Religious Structures in Hpasaung
On the very first day of the battle, February 29, 2024, the junta began airstrikes on the Northern neighborhood using incendiary bombs. The fires quickly spread southward and gradually reached the Christian Church compound in the Southern neighborhood, which burned structures on both sides of the road.
These bombings alone destroyed nearly 60% of civilian homes and buildings in Hpasaung.
But that wasn’t all. As battles between revolutionary forces and the junta intensified, the junta began airstrikes and heavy artillery shelling (60mm, 120mm). These attacks further damaged homes and fences that had somehow survived the initial fires. Explosions from artillery and bombs also left the town’s roads in ruins.
Revolutionary Forces Control Over the Town Inside Hpasaung, the military maintains two bases: Light Infantry Battalion, which is stationed in the Taungpaw neighborhood, and Light Infantry Battalion 135, which is stationed in Kawt Thit.
Currently, revolutionary forces and Ethnic Revolutionary Organizations (EROs) control most of the town, including key entry and exit points.
From the town’s entrance to its far end, both sides of the main road are lined with burned-out homes, destroyed vehicles, and religious structures.
At one point, I stopped with a revolutionary comrade and visited my family’s home, once filled with love and warmth.
Now, the roof was shattered by junta shelling, my clothes and books scattered across the ruins, broken glass everywhere, and family photos lying damaged on the ground.
I picked up one of our family photos, carefully placed it in my bag, wiped my tears, and quietly walked away.
I then visited the homes of friends, but only found ruins. There were houses that no longer looked like homes, but rather like haunted graveyards.
As we returned to our meeting point, the sound of heavy and small arms fire erupted.
One of the young comrades with me dove into a nearby trench for cover.
The 134th Light Infantry Battalion, stationed in the Taungpaw neighborhood, launched a two-minute artillery attack into the town.
I also dived into the nearest trench, my heart pounding in fear, unable to tell where the shells were landing.
However, the unbearable summer heat of Hpasaung was nothing compared to the fear, sorrow, and anxiety burning inside me.
Luckily, we managed to escape he horror, grief, and terror of this ruined town unharmed.
Once a lively town along the Thanlwin (Salween) River, bustling with motorbikes, cars, and vibrant trade, Pharsong has now become an abandoned graveyard with silent, lifeless, and haunting.
